Interaction Between a Non Linear Stokes Wave and Water Particles Motion at the Free Surface and the Bottom of a Wave Channel


Authors : Alpha Malick Ndiaye; Fadel Diop; Ibrahima Kama; Cheikh Mbow

Volume/Issue : Volume 11 - 2026, Issue 1 - January


Google Scholar : https://tinyurl.com/2cnxt32r

Scribd : https://tinyurl.com/58p4zcp3

DOI : https://doi.org/10.38124/ijisrt/26jan338

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Abstract : The movement of currents and water particles in the oceans, both at the surface and at depth, plays an important role in ocean circulation and the description of surface waves. The movement of water particles is generally influenced by the passage of surface waves. This movement provides a better understanding of the influence of waves on the movements of water particles at the surface and at the bottom. In this study, the evolution of wave and particles movement can be determined by considering a channel with linearly varying bottom. The nonlinear Stokes theory equations to be solved in this case will allow us to determine the solutions for the hydrodynamic wave parameters. Because of the non-linearity of the equations, finite difference method and iterative method of Gauss-Siedel by using the Successive over relaxation (S.O.R.) are used to resolve numerically the nonlinear equations. Our results are obtained using the FORTRAN and MATLAB software to visualize the temporal propagation of the wave in the channel and its influence on the water motion at the free surface and at the bottom. Finally, we will also look at the influence of the linear bottom on the evolution of the wave and the movement of water particles.

Keywords : Surface Waves, Channel, Movement of Water Particles, Nonlinear Equations, Finite Difference Method.

References :

  1. A M Ndiaye, F Diop, S Dia and C Mbow, Linear And     Non Linear Stokes Waves Theory : Numerical Hydrodynamic and Energy Studies, 2023, 13,61-79.
  2. R G Dean and R A Dalrymple, Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientists, illustrée, Prentice-Hall, University of California, 1984
  3. Molin, B., Jamois, E., Lee, C.H. and Newman, J.N. (2005) nonlinear wave interaction with a square cylinder. 20th International Workshop on Water Waves And Floating Bodies, Longyearbyen, Norway, 29 May–1 June 2005. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0893-9659(98)00128-1
  4. Belibassakis, K.A.and Athanassoulis, G.A. (2002) Extension of second order Stokes theory to variable bathymetry. J. Fluid Mech, 464, 35–80. https://doi.org/10.1017/S0022112002008753.
  5. G Wei, J T Kirby and, A Sinha, Generation of waves in Boussinesq Models using a source function method, Coastal Engineering, 1999, 36(4), 271-299. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00009-5
  6. N. Point and J.H. Saiac. Equations aux dérivées partielles- mathématiques et méthodes numériques. Cours de l'ESCPI, 2005.
  7. Eric Goncalvès da Silva. Méthodes et Analyse Numériques. Engineering school. Institut Polytechnique de Grenoble, 2007, pp.99
  8. A Bejan, Convection Heat Transfer., John Wiley & Sons, New York, 2013

The movement of currents and water particles in the oceans, both at the surface and at depth, plays an important role in ocean circulation and the description of surface waves. The movement of water particles is generally influenced by the passage of surface waves. This movement provides a better understanding of the influence of waves on the movements of water particles at the surface and at the bottom. In this study, the evolution of wave and particles movement can be determined by considering a channel with linearly varying bottom. The nonlinear Stokes theory equations to be solved in this case will allow us to determine the solutions for the hydrodynamic wave parameters. Because of the non-linearity of the equations, finite difference method and iterative method of Gauss-Siedel by using the Successive over relaxation (S.O.R.) are used to resolve numerically the nonlinear equations. Our results are obtained using the FORTRAN and MATLAB software to visualize the temporal propagation of the wave in the channel and its influence on the water motion at the free surface and at the bottom. Finally, we will also look at the influence of the linear bottom on the evolution of the wave and the movement of water particles.

Keywords : Surface Waves, Channel, Movement of Water Particles, Nonlinear Equations, Finite Difference Method.

Paper Submission Last Date
28 - February - 2026

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